Saturday, December 29, 2012

Christmas in Sri Lanka

Christmas in Sri Lanka 2012

Creche made by University students
Christmas this year was definately not like being at home. Christmas is celebrated here even though only about 10% of the people are Christians. But it is a very different experience than we have ever had.


One of the students I work with is a member of the University Christian Group, and they put on a caroling program at the University. They went all out and built a 6'x6' creche with real grass and palm woven thatched roof to promote the event.

Buddhist Monk watching the Christmas program
As usual the dignitaries attended, which included us and the Deputy Vice Chancellor, two monks, two priests, six nuns and a couple of deans. Loved the multicultural aspect. Of the 20 carols they sang, we only recognized two - Silent Night and Feliz Navidad. They must have their own song writers here. The priest, after telling us all about Easter, sang a solo in a beautiful operatic voice that was the highlight of the music.

Dancing Santa
We were all served juice and treats in our seats by tray-toting  students and then the big finale... a very skinny Santa with a rather scary white bearded mask came dancing down the isle to the sound track of Jingle Bells, throwing candy to all. It was quite a delightful evening.

On Christmas Eve we were invited to a dinner at a very up-scale ayurvedic resort. It did not seem like we were in Sri Lanka but were transported to a Monterey, California spa.The grounds were magical with art deco Christmas trees all lit in white, bridges and curving walkways that led up to the restaurant adorned in red and green table linens and fancy hand-made menus. The beautifully-presented buffet was bursting with exotic food of all kinds, from squid to turkey to pomegranate salads to real cheese. It was an amazing feast topped off by another Santa who danced with us all to Gangnam Style and Dancing Queen.

Christmas Eve at an Ayurvedic Restaurant
Another Dancing Santa



Christmas Day on the beach
On Christmas day we had a lovely walk on our beach and a swim with the surfers who flock here from Australia.



We ended the holiday with popcorn and rambutan, a sweet Sri Lankan fruit.

Life is good.


Popcorn and crab apple drinks


Rambutan

Saturday, December 8, 2012

Home Sweet Home and Sari Saga

Home Sweet Home


Jenise had found a house on-line and Aruni (our embassy contact) took us to Matara to help us secure a place to live. After looking at 2 other abysmal places we stopped at an ATM and went back to the little house on the hill to put our deposit down. We had a home but not for 4 days while they cleaned and painted, so we moved into Polhena Reef Hotel.

Our new home


We happened to arrive on a Buddhist holiday, Poya or full moon day. Polhena Beach is famous as a family vacation spot and was packed with families enjoying the water. This beach has a coral reef surrounding it, so it is fairly safe for swimmers although most Sri Lankans do not know how to swim and stay very close to shore. I waded into the water up to my waist and started to swim out toward the reef which threw the families into hysterics wanting me to come back even though there was no chance I would be swept out to sea because of the reef. I returned to their great relief and just stood in the water just like them.

Holiday at Polhena Beach:  Note everyone wearing their clothes in the water


We are thrilled to have a place to call home. Our little house on a hill catches the sea breezes and is surrounded by tropical plants including several very tall coconut trees. We have two bedrooms, so we are ready for guests.

Looking out our front door


Our living room

Our little kitchen has a refrigerator and a two burner gas stove fueled by propane tanks. One of our first tasks was to get a back-up tank, so we are ready when the one in use goes dry. This required arranging a tuk-tuk to take the empty tank to the shop and trade it in for a full one.
It is quite amazing what one can get into a tuk-tuk. One of our trips into town to purchase household goods included a rather large drying rack (there are no clothes dryers in Sri Lanka), an iron (looking clean and pressed is important), a mop and bucket for the tile floors, a squeedgie for the bathroom floor (no shower curtains here), a scrub brush on a broom handle (floors get washed often because the salt air makes them sticky), a water filter (just to be safe), and laundry baskets. All this plus our landlady (who loves to take us shopping) in one little tuk-tuk.

Our kitchen



Our back yard with tuk-tuk



Our driveway and front yard

Sari Saga

I now am the proud owner of a sari. The first thing the students said to us at the University was "Why don’t you wear a sari?" All the female teachers wear saris but the men wear just a western shirt and pants. So the hunt was on to find a cotton sari. Our landlady took us shopping and it turns out most of the saris are polyester, but after 4 shops, we found Jenise a red sari and a yellow and blue one for me. Then we had to get the sari slip which has a draw string to tie it tight and a matching blouse that also fits very tight. The 5 yard saris come unhemmed so I hemmed them and washed them and ironed them. That was the easy part.

Hemming the sari



Next I had to learn how to wear the sari. Nelum my landlady was very kind to show me how to wrap the sari and make sure it will not fall off (the secret is lots of safety pins). Then comes the hardest part of all, wearing the sari. It turned out that my sari was not cotton after all the promises the shop keeper gave us. So wearing it feels like I have on my own personal sauna. But the reaction was worth it with the men along the way to work calling “very beautiful, Sri Lanka style” and the old women smiling and saying “sari good”. Even the teachers at the University were impressed that I came in a sari and set about adjusting it and repining it for me. Now if I can just figure out how to walk in it without tripping over it when I go upstairs and keep it from wrapping around my legs so I cannot move, I will be set. So far Jenise still feels the sari sacrifice is not worth the accolades, but she does wear almost to the floor skirts, which one also can trip over.

Nelum helping me wrap my sari

Do I look Sri Lankan?

Saturday, November 24, 2012

Colombo Orientation



October 22, 2012
We had a wonderful time in Thailand enjoying its many wonders and dynamic culture, but after living out a suitcase for a month, we were anxious to get to our new home and unpack. But first we had to navigate the Sri Lankan capital, Colombo.

Breakfast at Serindib Guest House in Negambo
Battika and Hillary our Serindib hosts





After collecting our 2 huge suitcases from our guest house in Negombo and a good nights sleep, we hit the road at 7 am in order to make our 9 am appointment in Colombo just 30k away. Traffic was intensely congested, moving like molasses, and we were still 1/2 hour late. This was in spite of traffic cops every 1/2 block frantically waving their white gloves.

Dr Gamini Fonseka, our University of Ruhuna host, met us at the hotel and we headed back into the chaotic streets via tuk-tuk to get Jenise's visa. This was an amazing experience and lesson in Sri Lankan culture. Our first stop was at the National Department of Education to get a letter that had been signed and sealed by the head stating that he approved of Jenise working in Sri Lanka. After tea and chit chat, we headed to the immigration office, which was amazing. Just to get to the right floor we had to go up 2 flights of stairs, down one flight and then up 3 floors in a tiny elevator. The place was packed with babies crying, everyone sweating, and it was very clear no one had any idea what to do or where to go. After waiting about an hour in something that was sort of a line, Jenise was told she had to have a form. So she went back and filled out a form and stood in line again only to find out it was the wrong form. After filling out the right form, she went to the front of the line, but the office had closed and the line had moved to the next office where no one knew her, and everyone in the line was mad because she went to the front. After several hours and several windows she was told to come back in 3 days, and they would keep her passport. Given the disarray of the process this was a scary thought and we wondered if she would ever see her passport again. To our great relief, three days later we were able to collect the passport, and her resident visa after only 2 hours of windows, lines and numbers.
We felt like we had won the lottery.



The American Embassy booked us into a 200 year old institution the Galle Face Hotel. Built by the British Empire for dignitaries including the Queen of England and Anton Chekov. We had a room overlooking the Green right on the ocean. The grounds of this hotel are a refuge from the noise and pandemonium of the streets. We took full advantage of the pool and the abundant array of food they served for breakfast and high tea. The hotel is also a favorite place for weddings and their many some starting at 7am if that was the auspicious time that the astrologer had given them. It was great fun to see all the beautiful saris and the great traditional dress.

Galle Face Hotel

Galle Face hotel grounds

Egg hoppers a Sri Lankan favorite

Bride and bridesmaids in saris
Groom Kandy Style


Several days of training at the Embassy and many, many meetings got us prepared for our life in Sri Lanka. Aruni, our Embassy Cultural Affairs Officer Assistant, took us in hand and explained as much of the culture to us as she could including the head bobble which means I don't want to say yes or no.

Thursday, November 15, 2012

Pai River Trip


Home for the night

Pai River Trip

October 17-18, 2012

We had a wonderful two day river trip through the jungle on the Pai River in northern Thailand with the misty mountains rising above us and the gibbons calling from the tree tops. Only 3 tourists in our group, ourselves and a French woman. Our two delightful guides laughed the whole trip while we taught each other our languages, French, English, Lanna and Thai. They fed us very well with fried rice wrapped in banana leaves, passion and dragon fruit and real Thai coffee.

Path to the outhouse

Our cook



 


















The rapids were great fun, and the captain made sure we hit every rock where the water was the most turbulent, churning us around like a washing machine. We managed to stay in the raft and arrived 60 K down river safe and sound. Unlike our first bamboo raft trip, this one had us wear helmets and life jackets. The difference was this outfit was run by a French guy named 'Guy' not Thai. We feel so lucky to have been able to see this stunningly beautiful part of Thailand with a peak into Myanmar.



Pumping up the raft while the farm kids watch

Fried rice in a banana leaf for lunch on the river

Jenise at the front of the raft. Note helmet and life jacket

Banana flower plucked from the top of the tree to use for salads

The three hour drive back to the town of Pai was beautiful on a very windy road that went up over a mountain into the clouds. The little round-topped mountains are very green with tiny rice fields nestled in the valleys. At the top we could look down and see the white clouds down in the valleys like fluffy quilts protecting the villages.

Up in the clouds

Tuesday, November 13, 2012

Bangkok Markets



Bangkok Markets

October, 2012 


We spent the day in Bangkok doing the markets and seeing amazing things. There were Chinese, Indian, textile, shoe, fish, garment, vegetable, amulet and flower markets and each was more amazing than the last.
Man this load is heavy!


Need flip flops anyone?
Bolts of fabric on a motorcycle and stacks of banana leaves

Huge baskets of veggies
Hot hot peppers
Don't I look pretty?
A gift for the Buddha
Piles of orchids everywhere